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  <title>Green Martha</title>
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  <lastBuildDate>Fri, 18 May 2012 22:05:37 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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    <title>Green Martha</title>
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  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/361505.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Fri, 18 May 2012 22:05:37 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Nighttime sewing</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/361505.html</link>
  <description>It looks like I&apos;m finally able again to do some late night sewing, yay ! It feels good.&lt;br /&gt;I am slowly redoing my fantasy/winter-woodland-stroll garb. The cape has been redone since December (I still need to take pictures of it), now it&apos;s onto my franken-surcot. It was too tight across the butt, and the cotton bias binding was hideous. Oh, and it hanged asymmetrically, too. All seams have been cut of, and I&apos;m zigzagging it back into shape. The stitches almost disappear in the thick wool felt, and a little bit of steaming makes the added bulk at the seam lines almost unnoticeable.&lt;br /&gt;I&apos;m just waiting for the (still unfinished) curtains to get out of the dryer so that I can iron them into submission. I&apos;m pretty sure I won&apos;t get them all done tonight, but it&apos;s no big deal. The room is tidy and feels good for me to work in. And the extra rolling dessert tray has reached its final destination so I have cutting room on the floor again !</description>
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  <category>just bloggin&apos;</category>
  <category>mori girl</category>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>0</lj:reply-count>
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  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359988.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Wed, 25 Apr 2012 20:40:41 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>This icon is totally appropriate for today (includes political rant)</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359988.html</link>
  <description>About the icon, after being insulted four or five times over the past three days in lieu of a reasonable discussion, this is the only appropriate answer I have. *shrugs*&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;First, having BOTH candidates for the second row of presidential elections try to appeal to the xenophobic, reactionary far right by saying &quot;oh yes, actually we think along the same lines&quot; is &lt;i&gt;more than a little disturbing&lt;/i&gt;. What the frack ? I know the Leader Minimo and his pals totally ARE on the same page as the far right on a lot of topics*, but I thought better of the socialists. Or at least, of some of them.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;*Just for the record, he&apos;s been re-actualizing things we haven&apos;t heard for the last 70 years and making constant references to our dear old Pétain - since years, but in full force since Sunday. Classy.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Then, I&apos;ve been barfed onto three times today, I had to keep the kids quiet for two hours because we had an appointment with an ophthalmologist and the only time we could get one was during nap time, so we survived without nap in a very not kid-friendly zone. Add one hour in the car (where only the younger one slept, for, like, fifteen minutes). I&apos;m one tired maman. But I won&apos;t let that put me down, because I have awesome friends, because the kids didn&apos;t explode in flight despite the lack of nap, and because I was really good today and finally took pictures of the maternity corset ! Which implies I almost have a working photography setting !!!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/37780349@N02/7113601283/&quot; title=&quot;IMG_6286 by Green Martha, on Flickr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8161/7113601283_eab77367e2_n.jpg&quot; width=&quot;213&quot; height=&quot;320&quot; style=&quot;float : left;&quot; alt=&quot;IMG_6286&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I have the pictures, they&apos;re on my site, but have yet to be made accessible, and that involves working with galleries and editing, and I&apos;ve already made one dumb mistake tonight, so I figure it&apos;s a Bad Idea(tm) to try that now. You&apos;ll have to wait a little longer !&lt;br /&gt;This is something else entirely - wedding dress sample ! I&apos;ve found a way to make it work, it&apos;s going to be awesome ! I have other lengths of sparkly embroidered net in different colors and patterns, I&apos;m not sure I&apos;ll have the willpower to avoid turning one into an early teens evening gown.</description>
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  <category>website</category>
  <category>politics</category>
  <category>people are dumb</category>
  <category>erris corset</category>
  <category>samples</category>
  <lj:mood>whatever</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>7</lj:reply-count>
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  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359732.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Mon, 23 Apr 2012 11:35:54 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Justaucorps piccies !</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359732.html</link>
  <description>&lt;div style=&quot;clear: both; text-align: justify;&quot;&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/image/tid/38&quot; imageanchor=&quot;1&quot; style=&quot;clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img border=&quot;0&quot; height=&quot;320&quot; src=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/sites/default/files/images/pirates-corps3.preview.JPG&quot; width=&quot;174&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style=&quot;text-align: justify;&quot;&gt;&lt;br /&gt;So yeah, the justaucorps is done ! It has been for awhile, but I only got to take pictures on Friday. Then there was the weekend, working on the bathroom, yesterday was election day, and only today did I get to put the pictures online.&lt;br /&gt;The fabric was from my old purple 1890s cloak I butchered for outer fabic and lining. I had use two layers of wool so I had more than enough for the outer shell, but the lining, THAT was tight. I just managed to squeeze the body pieces in the old cloak lining, piecing just one back vent piece, but there wasn&apos;t enough fabric for even half a sleeve. I thingk the biggest remnant piece I have is 30x10cm.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;table cellpadding=&quot;0&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; style=&quot;float: right; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; text-align: left;&quot;&gt;&lt;tbody&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/image/tid/38&quot; imageanchor=&quot;1&quot; style=&quot;clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img border=&quot;0&quot; height=&quot;320&quot; src=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/sites/default/files/images/pirates-corps5.preview.JPG&quot; width=&quot;218&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;i&gt;Lower back pleats&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;/tbody&gt;&lt;/table&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style=&quot;text-align: justify;&quot;&gt;&lt;br /&gt;It was suposed to be a piratical / historically inspired coat that could be worn as everyday wear. It took a long time as I had two kids and made many other projects between start and completion, but at least, I learned something about organizing my work and keeping track of my processes. Not to mention, I learned a lot about tailoring - so that now I can see so many of the things I did wrong, heh ! (I&apos;m probably not even seeing a lot of them yet...)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;table cellpadding=&quot;0&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; style=&quot;float: left; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; text-align: left;&quot;&gt;&lt;tbody&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/image/tid/38&quot; imageanchor=&quot;1&quot; style=&quot;clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img border=&quot;0&quot; src=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/sites/default/files/images/pirates-corps1.preview.JPG&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;i&gt;Lower back lining, handstitches, embroidered label&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;/tbody&gt;&lt;/table&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style=&quot;text-align: justify;&quot;&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I draped the justaucorps on the wearer, using 1750s patterns as a guide. We went for a modern collar, straight front closure, functional pockets (including one inside breast pocket), and long, straight sleeves. And now I&apos;m goign to pack it tightly into one big flat box and mail it to my dear client and little brother ! :) I was a pleasure to work with him, and I&apos;m already thinking about what&apos;s next...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style=&quot;clear: both; text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/image/tid/38&quot; imageanchor=&quot;1&quot; style=&quot;margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img border=&quot;0&quot; height=&quot;320&quot; src=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/sites/default/files/images/pirates-corps6.preview.JPG&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/image/tid/38&quot; imageanchor=&quot;1&quot; style=&quot;margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img border=&quot;0&quot; height=&quot;320&quot; src=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/sites/default/files/images/pirates-corps4.preview.JPG&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/image/tid/38&quot; imageanchor=&quot;1&quot; style=&quot;margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img border=&quot;0&quot; height=&quot;320&quot; src=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/sites/default/files/images/pirates-corps2.preview.JPG&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/div&gt;</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359732.html</comments>
  <category>commissions</category>
  <category>pirates !</category>
  <lj:mood>accomplished</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>13</lj:reply-count>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359654.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Fri, 20 Apr 2012 10:06:38 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Comparisons</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359654.html</link>
  <description>I just tucked the youngest into bed for (hopefully) a short morning nap, the oldest is in Paris with the InLaws, so I have a little time to work. The backlog is... aaargh !&lt;br /&gt;I&apos;m putting the justaucrps up on Nick, hoping to be ale to get some pictures later today. I&apos;m only seeing the things I&apos;ve done wrong. Ack ! Tailoring mistakes, bad ironing... It&apos;s not bad, it&apos;s just... I could do sooooo much better if I restarted it now ! Especially when I compare it to the skirt I just finished, where I really took the time to prep and think before I cut and work with the fabric. (not that the skirt is perfect either, but it&apos;s reasonably good) It drives me nuts. I want to take the thing apart and just redo it. except I neither have time nor fabric for that.&lt;br /&gt;Learning curve, heh ?</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359654.html</comments>
  <category>tailoring</category>
  <category>pirates !</category>
  <lj:mood>annoyed</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>0</lj:reply-count>
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  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359178.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:23:32 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Still sewing !</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359178.html</link>
  <description>&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/37780349@N02/6937263120/&quot; title=&quot;Jupe en tweed by Serpentaires, on Flickr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5156/6937263120_4289f4670c_m.jpg&quot; width=&quot;160&quot; height=&quot;240&quot; alt=&quot;Jupe en tweed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/37780349@N02/6937265426/&quot; title=&quot;Fermeture à glissière et couture dos by Serpentaires, on Flickr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5342/6937265426_91ff0900a7_m.jpg&quot; width=&quot;160&quot; height=&quot;240&quot; alt=&quot;Fermeture à glissière et couture dos&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/37780349@N02/6937267950/&quot; title=&quot;Finitions internes by Serpentaires, on Flickr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5329/6937267950_2890dfa21e_m.jpg&quot; width=&quot;160&quot; height=&quot;240&quot; alt=&quot;Finitions internes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I haven&apos;t forgotten about sewing, I just spent a lot of time sewing this mostly by hand. I think there are two machine seams in the whole garment. There are a few things I wish I&apos;d have done better but I&apos;m generally pretty pleased. Oh, and it hangs all wonky on the dummy because the client is a totally different shape.&lt;br /&gt;Now I&apos;m thinking about really diving into the 1890s madness, but of course, I can&apos;t find my twill. I&apos;m sure I still have some white twill, it just... disappeared. But in the progress of turning up my entire stash I found various linens that I thought I had used up - and subsequently bought some new fabric to replace. I&apos;m sure the old twill will show up the minute I buy some new one !&lt;br /&gt;It&apos;s not like I have a lot of time to sew anyway - starting tomorrow, we start tearing down the old upstairs bathroom. The pink wallpaper&apos;s days are counted ! YAY !</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/359178.html</comments>
  <category>commissions</category>
  <category>house therapy</category>
  <category>1890s</category>
  <lj:mood>accomplished</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>4</lj:reply-count>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/358719.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Fri, 06 Apr 2012 21:06:45 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Slightly geeky</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/358719.html</link>
  <description>You know those little electronic games shaped like little computers for kids ? Heimlich has been gifted one of those by Lord Darkstone. It has the shape of an R2D2 and has C3PO asking the kid to help him find letters. With bad midi music. *snorts* Totally adorable to see the kid play with his own &quot;o&apos;dinateu&apos;&quot;, all serious,having seated himself next to his father (who&apos;s coding on his laptop).&lt;br /&gt;It&apos;s one of those &quot;I&apos;m doing a little bit of everything&quot; days. Finished uploading my prints to the site. Toyed with my FB page. Sewed some on my commission. Started another lino block (that&apos;s not real lino but this eraser-like thing, much gentler on my joints). Inked small parts on the new Pharos design. Now thinking about slipping into bed with a book. Focusing ? What&apos;s that ? It&apos;s hard to focus anyway while only working in small spurts. Which is probably the reason why I&apos;m so stalled on my writing when it&apos;s the one thing I really need to push on right now. Oh yes, and there was some bathroom remodel planning as well.&lt;br /&gt;I finished the day rewatching some BSG with the Home Geek and knitting some. I&apos;m on the first sleeve on my cardi that was supposed to be a pregnancy cardi for Toad. Well, at least I spared some wool as I didn&apos;t need to make the body so wide !&lt;br /&gt;I&apos;m trying to post  alittle more regularly, regardless of whether or not I have some good pictures. It&apos;s a good motivation to not just veg out on the Interweb...</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/358719.html</comments>
  <category>commissions</category>
  <category>just bloggin&apos;</category>
  <lj:mood>busy</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>0</lj:reply-count>
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  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/358237.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Tue, 03 Apr 2012 13:44:00 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>I have the most amazing friends</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/358237.html</link>
  <description>Yesterday I got a call from a very talented lady (you know who you are) asking for fabric advice for a stop-motion puppet. And this is half a million levels of cool, at least.&lt;br /&gt;Today, another very talented lady tempted me with a perfect outfit for Vizille, but I will be strong and tell her to make it instead. I know, I&apos;m evil... Mwahahah !&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I&apos;m still taking my time with sewing, working slowly, I have a lot of graphic projects simultaneously in the works.&lt;a name=&quot;cutid1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/37780349@N02/7035227409/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img height=&quot;300&quot; src=&quot;http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7185/7035227409_af000c78bd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Série &amp;quot;Merveilles du monde&amp;quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/37780349@N02/6889111382/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img height=&quot;300&quot; src=&quot;http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7132/6889111382_4f2b432ec7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rêve - reprise&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/37780349@N02/6889110816/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img height=&quot;300&quot; src=&quot;http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/6889110816_5c47261118.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Calcifer I&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/37780349@N02/7035203971/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img height=&quot;300&quot; src=&quot;http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/7035203971_a0214bb0ca.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Calcifer II&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;Just quick snapshots from my digicam... From left to right ant top to bottom : the &amp;quot;World Wonders&amp;quot; series is almost done - I&apos;m redoing the one on the far left -, just needs digital editing of the latest illustrations. Zinc-plate etching, and two aquatints (heavily worked over, polished and re-etched).&lt;br /&gt;I&apos;m finally satisfied with the three prints shown here. I might or might not edition them, later on. I generally do open editions on a very, very small scale anyway, because I don&apos;t have much time and I love to move on quickly. Right now, I have two print exchanges/exhibits I&apos;d love to contribute to. The A4 competition will definitely be doable, the other... I don&apos;t know. I&apos;m not sure I can reach the 15 prints by the deadline. Not sure I really WANT to (see above).&lt;br /&gt;That&apos;s all I have to show for today, the rest is all in the &amp;quot;maturation&amp;quot; phase.&lt;br /&gt;I&apos;ve also been spending a lot of time with the kids - it&apos;s amazing how much interest you get (except from my own children) when you bring a sketchbook to the playground... -, planning the bathroom remodel, enjoying the garden - although we haven&apos;t planted anything yet. First we ran late, and now... I don&apos;t know, it&apos;s so dry already, I fear I&apos;ll either have to break watering restrictions in the summer or the plants will just dry out. :s We haven&apos;t had any rain in what ?&amp;nbsp; A month ? And the last time was jut one short day.&lt;a name=&apos;cutid1-end&apos;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a name=&apos;cutid1-end&apos;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/358237.html</comments>
  <category>friends !</category>
  <category>just bloggin&apos;</category>
  <category>printmaking</category>
  <category>drawing</category>
  <lj:mood>busy</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>2</lj:reply-count>
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  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/357587.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Mon, 12 Mar 2012 11:49:02 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>This happy feeling...</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/357587.html</link>
  <description>... I think it&apos;s what being productive feels like. I did take a real week-end break from sewing - helped by the fact that I was in too much pain yesterday to do anything besides lying in bed and reading &lt;i&gt;The Hobbit&lt;/i&gt; for most of the day yesterday. Sometimes I wish I could be rid of the damn monhtly dose of feminity for good. I have my kids, I don&apos;t intend to ever get pregnant again, I don&apos;t need my reproductive cycle anymore, thankyouverymuch... But at least I&apos;ve read some.&lt;br /&gt;But I did cook quite a bit on Saturday, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://green-martha-kitchen.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blogged&lt;/a&gt; about it. I&apos;m having waaay too much fun with this cooking blog. I came home from my vacation all motivated to cook some yummy stuff ad it keeps me going. So : yay !&lt;br /&gt;Today I was a good girl and went back to work on the skirt. All seams are neatly finished, I&apos;m working towards a waistband now. Well,after lunch, because for now I have one big cuddly boy sitting on my lap and trying to decipher the letters I&apos;m typing. It feels amazing to be moving forward !</description>
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  <category>commissions</category>
  <category>website</category>
  <category>cooking</category>
  <lj:mood>productive</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>2</lj:reply-count>
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  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/357225.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Fri, 09 Mar 2012 10:49:47 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>It&apos;s hard to type in the sun...</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/357225.html</link>
  <description>I have issues seeing what I type, but the feeling of being outside, hearing the birds chirp, having the little one playing around, the cats exploring... is totally worth it.&lt;br /&gt;I haven&apos;t forgotten about the cooking blog, I just wanted to have it not look like complete crap before poting the link ;) Here it is : &lt;a href=&quot;http://green-martha-kitchen.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;La Cuisine de Green Martha&lt;/a&gt;. I&apos;m posting mostly simple, everyday stuff, and trying to make it accessible to everyone.&lt;br /&gt;Okay, I&apos;m programming one more post and going back to sewing. Naughty girl following too many different projects at the same time...</description>
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  <category>website</category>
  <category>just bloggin&apos;</category>
  <category>cooking</category>
  <lj:mood>getting some sunshine !</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>2</lj:reply-count>
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  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/357005.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Thu, 08 Mar 2012 14:42:57 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Downsizing</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/357005.html</link>
  <description>I should be about to jump into my car and go to the nude drawing class. Except... no. It&apos;s a mixture of being tired, not having slept well (thanks little Toad...), creative burnout on one side and too many project sinthe works in the other. Ont he whole, I feel like I might have bitten off more than I can chew this year with two courses at the art school. It takes away from the time I can focus on more directly work-oriented thing,s like creating product samples for my site. I&apos;m probably going to keep coming now and then, but for today, I&apos;m staying home and painting. with a little trip to a bio farmer&apos;s market when I&apos;m finished with the white paint.&lt;br /&gt;Yesterday&apos;s printmaking session was a disaster, very frustrating. The teacher is not really available and the group isn&apos;t working so great together - this is a brief sum up for a huge rant. I need to reconsider how I&apos;ll work on that next year. I might end up signing up for a course but only using the workshop outside the course hours.&lt;br /&gt;I&apos;m compensating by doing some graphic stuff, painting cubes for Heimlich. I don&apos;t think I&apos;ll finish something today but I&apos;ll have a good chunk done, that&apos;s already something.</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/357005.html</comments>
  <category>printmaking</category>
  <lj:mood>creative</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>0</lj:reply-count>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/356745.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Mon, 05 Mar 2012 11:57:59 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Blogging in the park</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/356745.html</link>
  <description>I though I could complete the commission skirt quickly, but what happened is that I decided to try and challenge myself some more with it. So I&apos;m matching the pattern on the tweed, working by hand a lot, and I plan to add some fancy tricks ere and there. But in the end, my client will have a better garment and I&apos;ll have better pictures for my portfolio. I totally blame the book &lt;i&gt;Couture Techniques&lt;/i&gt; for this sudden surge of perfectionism. Things are going pretty slowly but I managed to make steady progress while taking care of the kids and the house. Right now one kid is happily chirping in her stroller, while the big boy is running around and playing with rocks. Yes, I&apos;m taking advantage of my netbook to type this in advance. Too bad the wifi from the nearby building is too weak for me to post right away. :D&lt;br /&gt;I am also contemplating starting yet another blog  like I didn&apos;t have enough projects on my plae already. I have been daydreaming about maintaining a cooking blog for a while. Not too fancy recipes, but simple, tasteful things, starting with fresh products. That would challenge the translating nut inside me (cooking is not an area where I find my words in English as easily as say... sewing) and I would keep track of the recipes I know. I have a tendency to make a recipe for a while and then completely forget about it, which is a shame. I haven&apos;t done a banana-chocolate tart in years.&lt;br /&gt;So, would anyone be interested ?</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/356745.html</comments>
  <category>commissions</category>
  <category>just bloggin&apos;</category>
  <lj:mood>happy</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>6</lj:reply-count>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/356337.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Sun, 26 Feb 2012 13:46:01 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Please excuse the glitch</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/356337.html</link>
  <description>It seems I can&apos;t comment anymore. I&apos;m not ignoring anyone, I&apos;m just experiencing some technical hindrances. :)</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/356337.html</comments>
  <category>just bloggin&apos;</category>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>0</lj:reply-count>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/356028.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Sun, 26 Feb 2012 11:12:43 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>And a slice of extant garments to top it off...</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/356028.html</link>
  <description>I have a pile of extant garments sitting just a few meters away from me ! Including a late 1890s bodice and a 1890s skirt...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://flic.kr/p/bk8GnW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bodice&lt;/a&gt; : not the most perfect sewing skills, it has been worn a lot and altered in several places. The pleating in front and back is beaaaaaaauuutiful ! Concerning the details I&apos;m presently looking at, the sleeves are lined ust the same as the bodice, without any kind of stiffening.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://flic.kr/p/bk8gPs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skirt&lt;/a&gt; : it is NOT 6m50 wide at the bottom :) I haven&apos;t measured precisely yet, but somewhere between 3 and 4 meters. It has 10cm of cartridge pleats at the top in the back. The hem is stiffened with a 25cm high strip of a kind of glazed coutil - the same fabric that&apos;s used for the waistband. There&apos;s a small braided band, about 1,5cm wide, folded in half over the bottom edge of the skirt, and a mystery strip of blue silk, 3cm high, applied over the glazed coutil but under the braid on the inside.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style=&quot;white-space: nowrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dreamwidth.org/profile?user=heileen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png&quot; alt=&quot;[profile] &quot; width=&quot;17&quot; height=&quot;17&quot; style=&quot;vertical-align: text-bottom; border: 0; padding-right: 1px;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dreamwidth.org/profile?user=heileen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;b&gt;heileen&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt; has put up a truckload of pictures up on her FlickR, includign a fa-bu-lous natural form bodice... Yum !</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/356028.html</comments>
  <category>1890s</category>
  <lj:mood>high</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>0</lj:reply-count>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355728.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Thu, 23 Feb 2012 14:45:47 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Sometimes people don&apos;t agree with themselves</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355728.html</link>
  <description>Another short note on the insides of the gigot sleeves ad matching skirts, from &lt;i&gt;La Mode Illustrée&lt;/i&gt; (p. 70).&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;On March, 1st, 1896, they begin talking about &quot;flat&quot; sleeves, except for the very top of the sleeve. Or the sleeve can remain full, but with a vertical gathering thread running from shoulder to wrist and flattening the fullness. These two styles are still very new and the author isn&apos;t convinced they will last, though.&lt;br /&gt;Long sleeves are &quot;still&quot; completely lined with starched muslin, just enough to prevent them from being too floppy.&lt;br /&gt;Concerning skirts, they remain very wide (6m50 says the book), but the heavy stiff lining is now omitted. Some couture houses use a kind of light and flexible padding as an interlining. A simple 10cm high strip of horsehair is inserted at the hem.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This doesn&apos;t quite agree with what I found in my previous post - although both fashion chronicles were by the same author. That&apos;s... amusing.&lt;br /&gt;I&apos;m not translating those quotes very precisely, just compiling tricks to get the right shape for sleeves and skirts. If you want the exact wording, just go ahead and ask !</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355728.html</comments>
  <category>1890s</category>
  <lj:mood>nerdy</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>2</lj:reply-count>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355491.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Fri, 17 Feb 2012 22:07:24 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>The innards, post one</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355491.html</link>
  <description>Okay, I started really going through all the text parts in my books.&lt;br /&gt;On the 26th of January, 1896, La Mode Illustrée, pp. 30-31, says sleeves entirely lined with a stiff fabric are now a rarity (so they DID entirely line the sleeves before !). Sleeves should now only use a 20cm deep, 60cm long horsehair ruffle attached on the sleeve lining (between the lining and the fashion fabric), a little below the armhole, on the upper side of the arm only, not on the underside.&lt;br /&gt;By the way, the text also says skirts are made of heavy woolen fabrics that don&apos;t require a lining. Skirts of lightweight fabrics and silk should be lined with a stiff fabric like horsehair, at least for the three box pleats in the backs.&lt;br /&gt;There are a LOT more information tidbits in those texts, covering fabric advice, tips on how to refurbish an old dress, collar and cuff shapes... I just have to sieve through this. I will probably end up gathering all of it into some... thing, for my own use for this 1890s project. I have to think about this more, as I&apos;m pretty sure it could be of interest to other costumers. Suggestions are always welcome :)</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355491.html</comments>
  <category>1890s</category>
  <category>fashion plates</category>
  <category>la mode illustrée</category>
  <lj:mood>geeky</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>4</lj:reply-count>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355273.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Fri, 17 Feb 2012 11:34:04 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>All kinds of weird</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355273.html</link>
  <description>Yesterday Murphy tried jumping over the railing at the top of the stairs. That wasn&apos;t a good idea as he can&apos;t see where he&apos;s going. He knocked a lamp down (one that was hooked to the wall over a big mirror), the lightbulb exploded, but thankfully the cat is unharmed. *shakes head*&lt;br /&gt;This morning I got a kind of weird email. I think someone confused me with someone else - but it still made me happy as it offered some information I&apos;ll be sure to keep in my head for someday, later. I have the feeling life is throwing lemons at me as a very unsubtle hint that I should make some lemonade. :) Lots of ideas about my business project(s), and I managed to get some structural work done on the website as well.&lt;br /&gt;And now, I noticed I must have been on crack when I scanned the La Mode magazines, because I put them all together in the 1913 folder while more than half of them date from 1914. I need to correct that while I&apos;m editing the nodes.&lt;br /&gt;I started mocking up the sleeve for my 1895-6 blouse, happily using &lt;span style=&quot;white-space: nowrap;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jenthompson.dreamwidth.org/profile&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png&quot; alt=&quot;[personal profile] &quot; width=&quot;17&quot; height=&quot;17&quot; style=&quot;vertical-align: text-bottom; border: 0; padding-right: 1px;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jenthompson.dreamwidth.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;b&gt;jenthompson&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&apos;s work as a starting point. It&apos;s not bad, but not perfect either. I need to research what the innards of those gigantic sleeves looked like. Right now my gigot is a bit floppy. The stiffer taffetas will help some, but I suspect they did have a few other tricks back then...</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355273.html</comments>
  <category>just bloggin&apos;</category>
  <category>1890s</category>
  <lj:mood>rambling</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>4</lj:reply-count>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355041.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Mon, 13 Feb 2012 19:12:08 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Uh-oh...</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355041.html</link>
  <description>So the good news is : I&apos;ve sewn some ! I thought the 1893 blouse from Ageless Patterns I had lying around was a good starting point and it was. It worked even better once I figured out the seam allowances were included in the pattern. Tried it on, adjusted the fit and I can now proceed to cutting out the lining. I also realised I could use it as a base for my corset cover as well. I&apos;m glad I started from scratch again, I think this pattern block fits me slightly better than the previous one I was using - which would have needes adjusting anyway, as my body has changed some after two pregnancies.&lt;br /&gt;While I made progress on the outerwear, I&apos;m afraid more work will be necessary in the underwear department. My antediluvian corset is coming apart. The hook-and-eye tape I used instead of a busk in front is coming undone. I kinda fixed it, ghetto-style, but I doubt it&apos;ll last very long. So the 1890s corset I had planned has turned from a &quot;oh, I&apos;d like that one day&quot; into an emergency. *sigh*&lt;br /&gt;I tried the Erris pregnancy corset on, and the lacing on the sides just flatten my hips. And it has spiral steel rubbing against my ribs down the front, so I&apos;m not planning on using this one again.</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/355041.html</comments>
  <category>undies</category>
  <category>1890s</category>
  <lj:mood>busy</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>0</lj:reply-count>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/354716.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Mon, 13 Feb 2012 15:19:37 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Since it&apos;s on everyone&apos;s mind right now...</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/354716.html</link>
  <description>&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/image/tid/221&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/sites/default/files/images/1917-01-07-manteauvelaine.preview.jpg&quot; style=&quot;float : left&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Before I go back to working on some mid-1890s stuff, I figured I might as well scan just a few images from my 1917 book. *big grin* It&apos;s not much, but there&apos;s a lot more to come. This morning I picked up the 1895 and 1896 books from &lt;i&gt;La Mode Illustrée&lt;/i&gt;, I also have two other books from 1895 waiting. And there are still some pictures on my site awaiting text.&lt;br /&gt;I have found a tartan blouse from 1895 tha I like, so I *think* I have a general concept of what I want the blouse to look like. Or two. I&apos;m debating whether or not to line it and I&apos;m leaning towards a lining. It will make it hang better. My 1893 blouse pattern says only wash goods blouses should be left unlined. As a bonus point, I could use the same lining as a base for the cream and green blouse as well.</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/354716.html</comments>
  <category>1890s</category>
  <category>fashion plates</category>
  <lj:mood>creative</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>7</lj:reply-count>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/354553.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Sun, 12 Feb 2012 19:07:38 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Another magazine is up !</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/354553.html</link>
  <description>&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/node/1001&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img border=&quot;0&quot; src=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/sites/default/files/images/1907-03-30-montsoir.preview.jpg&quot; width=&quot;150&quot; style=&quot;float : right ;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; I finished uploading the images and adding the descriptions today. This one is a loose issue (with pattern sheet !) from a magazine I haven&apos;t come accross that often, &lt;i&gt;La Mode Pratique&lt;/i&gt;. After seeing this one almost disintegrate just from being scanned, I think the paper quality might have reduced the chances of this particular magazine to survive for long :/ Anyway, it&apos;s now up and I won&apos;t need to touch it to look at the pretties again. The search system is still very whacky, but at least we identified the issue precisely, that&apos;s something, right ? Now I just need my code-wizard husband to correct the issue...</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/354553.html</comments>
  <category>fashion plates</category>
  <lj:mood>tired</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>2</lj:reply-count>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/353421.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Tue, 31 Jan 2012 15:30:37 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Teasing !</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/353421.html</link>
  <description>&lt;div style=&quot;text-align : center ;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/node/1232&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.green-martha.com/sites/default/files/images/couture-pirates-teasing.preview.JPG&quot; width=&quot;300&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Yup, it&apos;s done and it just needs good pictures taken.</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/353421.html</comments>
  <category>pirates !</category>
  <lj:mood>content</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>1</lj:reply-count>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/353086.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 13:16:16 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Kicking my feet up</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/353086.html</link>
  <description>It was obviously needed (especially after climbing up to the sixth floor with the two kids, two bags and the stroller because the elevator was out of order, eek). I just spent two glorious hours mindlessly reading and browsing stuff on my laptop with a candle burning nearby. Talking of candles, I used to get either nauseous or coughing fits from all types of scented candles, but the ones Ikea currently sells are fine by me ! And they come in apple-cinnamon and CHOCOLATE ! I can have a chocolate-scented living-room ! Yay ! I am not a huge fan of eating chocolate, but the scent, hmmmm...&lt;br /&gt;Now it&apos;s time for a tea, then tacking the last pleats in place, buttons, a label on the justaucorps, and then making it and the living-room ready for a photoshoot. This includes ordering LED lightbulbs online, so it might take a little more than a few hours.&lt;br /&gt;And people ? Pleeeeaaase stop tempting me with fabric printing. Please don&apos;t do it, I don&apos;t have time for this !</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/353086.html</comments>
  <category>just bloggin&apos;</category>
  <category>pirates !</category>
  <lj:mood>relaxed</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>4</lj:reply-count>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352906.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Sun, 29 Jan 2012 21:41:03 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Somewhat random mix of things</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352906.html</link>
  <description>&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/37780349@N02/6783459091/&quot; title=&quot;Oh encore du tissu ! by Serpentaires, on Flickr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6783459091_42f0a631c4.jpg&quot; width=&quot;333&quot; height=&quot;500&quot; alt=&quot;Oh encore du tissu !&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;That&apos;s a picture of last week&apos;s plunder. The beige thing underneath isn&apos;t a table, it&apos;s my new (sadly unbound) 1886 &lt;i&gt;Mode Illustrée&lt;/i&gt;. Sadly it has been hit right in the middle where the pages used to be folded and they now tear veeeery easily there - but overall it&apos;s in good shape. I lost the teens books I was bidding on. *pouts* &lt;i&gt;Mode Illustrée&lt;/i&gt; books from after 1900 don&apos;t seem to pop up as often as the bustle era ones on eBay but, oh well, you can&apos;t win them all, right ?&lt;br /&gt;Besides, I just ordered &lt;i&gt;Queen Maud&apos;s Wardrobe&lt;/i&gt; for half the retail price, and the new &lt;i&gt;What Clothes Reveal&lt;/i&gt;. And a whole stack of children books for Heimlich. Like a BIG pile. I blame the book we haven&apos;t been able to hide from him yet that his Grandma (guess which side...)  gave him for Christmas : ugly images, text is dumb as a brick and full of typos. It&apos;s now hidden behind a lot of more interesting stuff, with the shiny (yeah, metallic shiny !) turned to the wall.&lt;br /&gt;Justaucorps status : it needs the front buttons and half a buttonhole sewn over. The interfacing (white, as I didn&apos;t have anything in a dark color) showed through the machine-made buttonholes after I had opened them. I tried recovering them with the machine. Bad idea #1. Then I went for handsewing and buttonhole thread. Bad idea #2. I don&apos;t know whether it&apos;s the thread that&apos;s just bad or if it&apos;s a combination of thread and fabric thickness. So I had to make do with the same sewing thread I used with the machine and hand-sewing. It may sound like a cardinal sin but it works. Except for the part where I keep jamming the eye of the needle into the flesh of my thumb, because the wool + interfacing are pretty thick and tightly woven and the needle slips from the thimble. Right into my thumb. But I&apos;m almost done, I even managed to make steady progress over the last couple of days despite Toad only sleeping for 20 minutes on one afternoon and her being übercranky for most of the day yesterday. (I guess she just used up both kids crankiness potential for a while because they&apos;ve been adorable today)&lt;br /&gt;I decided to take some rest this week, so the children will be with Nounou on all weekdays. January has just been exhausting, both physically and mentally, so I&apos;m taking advantage of our wonderful and helpful sitter. And maybe I&apos;ll be able to work a little bit for myself, like on a set-up to take better pictures of my costumes, or even on some sewing if I get to finish my next commission quickly enough.</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352906.html</comments>
  <category>just bloggin&apos;</category>
  <category>books</category>
  <category>pirates !</category>
  <lj:mood>tired</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>2</lj:reply-count>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352740.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Sat, 21 Jan 2012 20:47:04 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Mythbusting</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352740.html</link>
  <description>I tried searching for the yardage requirements of some mid to late 1890s skirts, and all I got was &quot;OMG you can&apos;t survive under 5 yards !!!&quot;.&lt;br /&gt;I took the pattern pieces out of my trusty Ageless Patterns package (don&apos;t remember the number, but the skirt is perfect and the jacket is pretty close), laid them out on the blue wool... I might have to piece a teeny tiny bit the side, but it fits ! Hahah, take THAT 5 yards ! (I have something like 2,5 yards)&lt;br /&gt;Still, I haven&apos;t found tha tmany examples of strong color contrasts for the last years of the 19th century, so I&apos;m considering using a brown wool twill I inherited from my Grandma.&lt;br /&gt;I went fabric shopping today, and came back with a mauve and white shot taffetas for a petticoat, purple and black tweed for a commission, some stark white fine cotton for underwear, and I couldn&apos;t pass up the check taffetas in green and cream. It shall become another 1890s blouse to go with the brown skirt. It also works with my existing 1898 skirt, and it would look awesome as a complete day dress... Decisions decisions...</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352740.html</comments>
  <category>1890s</category>
  <category>fabric whore</category>
  <lj:mood>contemplative</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>4</lj:reply-count>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352296.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Thu, 19 Jan 2012 21:37:18 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Research is what keeps me up at night...</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352296.html</link>
  <description>And it feels weird that I&apos;m turnign into a researcher, me, the &quot;OMG it&apos;s prettiz I wants its &quot;-girl. I&apos;m looking through my magazines collection, compiling tartan occurrences and looking at silk vs. plain petticoats and at how to get the correct fullness at the bottom. Mighty ruffles of Doom ! Lots and lots of ruffles on top of ruffles on top of flounces on top of... You get the picture.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;First, I need to make myself some actual &lt;b&gt;clothes&lt;/b&gt; to wear for Easter-shmeaster-when-do-we-do-this-Heileen-? I&apos;m looking for plaid blouses, because I have four meters of plaid taffetas, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5444737552_fbf5e77614.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this photograph&lt;/a&gt; has made me want to make an 1890s plaid blouse for years.&lt;br /&gt;Now the questions :&lt;br /&gt;- which year do I choose ? I have a soft spot for some 1895-96 designs, but tartan really does seem typical of 1897-98. The sleeves would be a little more work, as I haven&apos;t yet found patterns or diagrams for those, but I could go a little more crazy on the trim. And I have a bazillion skirt patterns/cutting diagrams at hand.&lt;br /&gt;- OMG I have to choose a fabric ! The blouse itself is settled. I have some silk remnants from my wedding dress that coordinate quite well and would make nice accents. I&apos;m leaning towards some wool or the like for the skirt.&lt;br /&gt;Option one would be the same short plush I used for my 1885 dolman. I then have different shades of wool* twills that might work, one more reddish brown, one a lighter brown. It also suddenly occurred to me there&apos;s a hint of light blue-grey in the plaid, and I have the world&apos;s prettiest lightweight blue wool*, but alas, only 2 meters. I doubt I can wing an entire bell skirt out of that.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The skirt won&apos;t get done for a while, though. First I will concentrate on the blouse and make the waistband of my existing 1898 skirt a smidge larger - I made the skirt before Heimlich, it&apos;s a little too tight now, not much, I don&apos;t expect to have to move the zipper**.&lt;br /&gt;Then I&apos;ll need proper petticoats, because I&apos;m ashamed of the ones I have, and after I&apos;ve read a very complete description of a fashionable 1898 silk petticoat, I can&apos;t see a way to alter my existant ones to my satisfaction. Now if only I could find a nice, cheap taffetas with rosebuds or B&amp;W stripes (it can be synthetic, as long as it&apos;s not screaming &quot;Polyester !&quot; too loudly, but it has to be cheap). And lace. I need yards and yards of lace.&lt;br /&gt;Then probably the rest of the underwear : chemise, drawers, corset cover.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;And only after that am I allowed to make plans for the next ensemble... but the dark turquoise wool is talking to me in my sleep :p&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;*all wools courtesy of my grandmother&apos;s hidden mighty wool stash of doom that we found while emptying the house. It filled about 1/4th of her wardrobe, and she didn&apos;t even sew !&lt;br /&gt;**Yes, it has a zipper, I wear it in everyday life, so it got everyday conveniences.</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352296.html</comments>
  <category>undies</category>
  <category>1890s</category>
  <category>fabric whore</category>
  <category>blouse</category>
  <category>tartan</category>
  <lj:mood>exhausted</lj:mood>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>6</lj:reply-count>
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  <guid isPermaLink='true'>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352221.html</guid>
  <pubDate>Wed, 18 Jan 2012 01:31:09 GMT</pubDate>
  <title>Oh MET museum database...</title>
  <link>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352221.html</link>
  <description>... you make me want to wrap myself in ham and dance around in the moonlight.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;You are making me CRAZY !&lt;br /&gt;I want to see 1890s petticoats, so I suspect those would show up in a 1800-1900, Textiles, &quot;Petticoat&quot; search. No 1902 négligé. No 1998 Dior dress. No fishermen photograph. No 1750 court dress. PETTICOATS, I just want to look at those damn petticoats ! *sobs*&lt;br /&gt;Also, what tells you the bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80096054?rpp=20&amp;amp;pg=1&amp;amp;ft=petticoat+1890&amp;amp;pos=8&quot;&gt;this piece&lt;/a&gt; was &quot;meant to be seen&quot; ? Cause it&apos;s pretty ? I have a lot of pretty lingerie, I had a lot of pretty lingerie before I even met my husband. I don&apos;t go around naked in it. &lt;b&gt;66cm&lt;/b&gt; is pretty short for a petticoat that&apos;s supposed to be seen in &lt;b&gt;1903&lt;/b&gt;. Also, considering half of your petticoats from the period are either colored or even patterned, I wouldn&apos;t say color is &quot;unusual&quot; for the late 19th century... It&apos;s also nice that the &quot;petticoat, linen&quot; search turns up a few cotton ones that didn&apos;t show up in the &quot;petticoat, cotton&quot; search. No linen petties in sight, though...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;So yeah, I can&apos;t sleep and I&apos;ve started researching 1890s undies.</description>
  <comments>http://green-martha.livejournal.com/352221.html</comments>
  <category>undies</category>
  <category>1890s</category>
  <category>people are dumb</category>
  <lj:security>public</lj:security>
  <lj:reply-count>15</lj:reply-count>
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